This article will focus on stiffening your motor mounts. The benefits will usually be decreased wheel hop, more positive shifts, better throttle response, and less lost power due to torque flexing. The side effects are more noise and more vibration. Although I personally did not think this was the best of modifications for a daily driver after installing the inserts, there are others who swear by them. So, for those of you who want to give it a are step by step instuctions to save you some time.

Items to gather before you start:
- Jack and jack stands
- Block of wood (to place between engine/tranny and jack)
- Sockets: 10mm, 14mm, 17mm (deep), 19mm (1/2" drive reccomended for larger ones)
- Ratchets: 3/8" and 1/2"
- Extensions and elbows for sockets
- Breaker Bar Extension of some kind for leverage
- Torque Wrench
- 19mm crescent wrench
- Screwdriver (to remove intake clamps)
- Pliers (to remove hose clamps)

Before you start, you need to raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. You should never work under a car supported by only a jack. You also need to disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Left Mount
First off you will need to support the engine with a jack and a block of wood under the oilpan. The block of wood evenly distributes the load.
Before you can get to the mount, you will have to remove the cruise control module. There are (3) 10mm bolts holding it down.
After you get the bolts loose, you need to disconnect the electrical connector and the large vacumn hose.
Now you can simply set it to the side.
With that out of the way you can see the mount and bracket. There are (3) 17mm nuts holding the bracket to the block and mount. You will need to remove these and remove the bracket.
With the bracket out of the way, you can see the (3) 14mm bolts holding down the mount. Remove all three and lift the mount out.
Now we are ready to put the inserts in. This will require a little lube and a lot of elbow grease.
This is what it will look like with the inserts in place.
Now bolt the mount back in. (33 lbf-ft)
Then the bracket. (54lbf-ft - top one first, then back two)
Now just reinstall the cruise control module and you are done with this side.
Right Mount
First off you will need to support the transmission with a jack and a block of wood. The block of wood evenly distributes the load.
Next you will need to remove your intake system, or filter box, to gain access to the mount. After you have done so you will need to remove (2) 17mm nuts and (2) 17mm bolts that secure the bracket to the block and the mount.
After the bracket is off, simply press the inserts into the mount and you are ready to reinstall the bracket.
Tighten everything back down and you are done with this side.
(47 lbf-ft for bracket hold downs, 54lbf-ft for pass through bolt)

Rear Mount
The rear mount can be a bit tricky, but if you follow these guidelines you should have it done in no time.
First off you need to keep the tranny supported by the jack.
The arrow here points to the area we need to get to..
Here is a little bit closer shot. You can see the backside of the bolt going through the bracket and mount here.
This is the front side of the same 17mm bolt...
Here we see the bolt holding the bracket to the block.
This is a closer view of the same 19mm bolt.
Then, there are two more 19mm bolts holding the bracket to the tranny.
Just another view, the arrow is the backside of the top 19mm bolt.
Now that we know where everything is, here is how to get them out. For the 17mm bolt holding the bracket to the mount, you need to use extensions to bring your ratchet past the end of the intake manifold. Then you need to use some type of breaker extension to get the required leverage to break the thing loose. I used part of a floor jack handle for this. You will also need to disconnect the brake booster hose that attaches to the intake manifold, remove your strut bar if you have one, pull the throttle cable out of the bracket in front of the master cylinder, and detach one small vacumn line under the intake manifold. All this is required so you have room to work.
Another view..
After you break it loose, you will use an elbow adaptor to make quicker, easier work of removing the bolt completely. It helps to squeeze your arm in and hold the socket on the bolt as you work.
Use a small extension and the breaker bar extension on the 19mm bolt on the other side as well. If there is any intake piping still in place, it will need to come off so you have room to work.
Now remove the two lower 19mm bolts. I had to use a crescent wrench on the lower one because the O2 sensor is in the way. You can remove it, but I did not want to damage it. For the top bolt, you can again use the ratchet with extensions. On all these 17mm and 19mm bolts, a 1/2" drive ratchet is reccomended due to the forces involved.
After those are all out you can wiggle the bracket around to get the inserts in the mount, shown by an arrow here. If you cannot move the bracket enough, then remove the (3) 14mm bolts holding the mount in place and there will be more wiggle room. That is what I did.
After you get the inserts in, tighten the mount back down first. (47 lbf-ft)
Another view..
Next slip the 17mm bolt through the mount and tighten just enough to catch about 7 or 8 threads.
Then do the 19mm top bolt the same way. Next reinstall the two lower bolts, you will now thank me that you did not tighten the top bolts all the way. Get the lower bolts tight (61lbf-ft), then go tighen the top ones. (19mm one to 61 lbf-ft first, then 17mm one 43lbf-ft last)

Now go back and make sure you hook all the lines you disconnected back up, reinstall any parts you had to remove, and check for tools in the engine compartment. Then, check for anything you missed, if you miss a vacumn hose your car will run pretty bad. Lower the car off of the stands, reconnect the battery, and you are finished.